I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. I am right back to where I started. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. Well you were right air was entering from another source. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. Your task will be to find that. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. Capability Range: Advanced started up the engine. Reducing that a bit will help. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Always had to set idle above 950. I'll have to check again tomorrow. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. :-). One of them might be faulty. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. Should I just disable idle timing control? I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. If more info is needed just ask. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! I'd really appreciate some help. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Okay, try my method. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. Did you find this enlightening? For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? IAC Pos.% = 0 I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. If you use your handheld to go here: I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. However, I have never found that to be the case. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. Is this normal ? A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. Enjoy your Sniper! My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. I can get it to fire up on the But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. :-). I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. No problems with either cold or hot starts. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. Is this an issue to worry about? The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Holley Sniper Iac Delete Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to
This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. Comp. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. back to trying to zero down an idle. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. All times are GMT-6. I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. I appreciate everything you are saying. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! It didnt do this with the carb on it. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. any ideas? No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. your IAC is at zero. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. Im thinking a faulty TPS. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. Save Share. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. Let's start by not assuming anything. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Two things to keep in mind as you do that. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. Going back to what you said. What can I do? Holley have given a new unit. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. Are these compatible enough? After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. Good luck! If you're having issues with your Holley Sniper IAC getting stuck at 20, there are a few things you can try to fix the problem. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. Shut off car/restart and it's back to idle at Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded.
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